A love letter to Mysuru
- Supriya Koppa
- Dec 1, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: May 8
The City of Palaces, Karnataka’s cultural capital, home of the world famous 10-day ನಾಡ ಹಬ್ಬ Dasara, Mysore, for most people is about these grand identities that she has. However, to me, for the longest time,
Mysuru was more about eating Maddur Vade on the highway, the smell of Jaji flowers and the red oxide flooring in ದೊಡ್ಡಮ್ಮ’s (mother’s elder sister) house, learning how to ride the old Luna, and eating the Mysoor-specific Green Masala Puri, while looking at the twinkling light atop Chamundi Betta.
There is something magical in Mysuru’s air. You know, they say, that Mysuru’s roads are as wide and well-planned because the Maharaja designed them with the elephants in mind. The city truly comes alive in October every year, leading up to the 10-day Dasara celebration. Grand, colorful lights sprawl all over the city. There are concerts nearly every day, and ‘Yuva Dasara’ specially for young adults, which has hosted the likes of Sunidhi Chauhan and Sonu Nigam in the past. This is the only 10-day period in the whole year, during which the majestic Mysuru throne is on display for visitors of the Amba Vilas palace. And there is, of course, the Dasara Exhibition, which goes on nearly till December.
When you visit the Mysuru Palace, here are some of the things to keep in mind:
By car, the parking and entrance is at the South or the Varaha Gate. Do visit the Shweta Varaha temple which is at this Gate. You can get a Tonga ride around the palace perimeter from this gate. Tickets for the Light and Sound show are issued at this gate.
By bus, from the City Bus stand, and the Railway Station, nearest entrance is at the North or the Jayarama - Balarama Gate. Do visit the Kote Anjaneya temple here.
The East gate is the Jayamarthanda Gate, which does not have public access, but is a great photo spot.
Every time I visit Mysuru, as soon as I lay eyes on the aqueduct, followed soon after by Columbia Asia, there is a sense of uplifted relief. I have problems before, I have problems after, but while in Mysuru? Never! Spot the aqueduct next time you take the Bengaluru - Mysuru highway, okay?
And what should you do as soon as you reach Mysuru? Eat Churmuri! For as long as I can remember, it has been a tradition to first eat Masala Puri, which is Green like I said before, rather than the Bengaluru Red Masala Puri, and then cross the road to eat Churmuri. These chaat ಬಂಡಿs (stalls) have been here in Ballal Circle, since my mother’s college days at Sarada Vilas, and are continued to be run by the same people, just the next generation. As you stand here and enjoy the chaat, with Mysuru’s evening breeze, you can see Chamundi Betta in the distance.
With the passing years, my love and adoration for Mysuru, has become a steadfast attachment. Every best friend of mine, has been shown around Mysuru, by me which includes my favorites - Amba Vilas palace’s elaborate audio tour, taking the bus up to Chamundi Betta, chaats at Ballal Circle, a whole morning at the Mysore Zoo (Sri Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens), tonga ride around the Palace, and shopping at Cauvery Emporium on Sayyaji Rao Road.
This (almost) obsession that my parents have passed down to me, led to rebuilding my grandfather’s house in Mysuru, giving us a home base. And this has significantly grown to my list of favorite spots:
Starting the day with a walk around Kukkarahalli Kere (lake), a well earned breakfast at Chutney Dip, which is mornings only and of limited supply!
Eating at The Green Hotel which sits in the courtyard of the Chittaranjan Palace. Dinner is in the large garden, with candle light!
Running at University Oval Grounds, walking along this beautiful path from Oriental Research Institute, passing Maharaja’s and Yuvaraja’s colleges, Wadiyar School of Architecture, ending with a bite and coffee at King’s Coffee facing Manuvana.
Visiting Krishna Raja Sagara dam, eating at the Royal Orchid restaurant which has an unbeatable view of the Brindavan gardens and the KRS dam.
Visiting Devaraj Urs Road. This was an old favorite, with some new additions. Seeing the statues of Chamarajendra Wodeyar and Nalwadi Krishna Raja Wodeyar, while my father reminisced about shopping at Badshah and Sukri’s when he was a boy, and taking in the general splendour of Devraj Urs Road. To this, I have now added eating at Bombay Tiffanys and devouring the sublime Masaal Dose at Shree Dosa Point.
Good old Churmuri and Dahi Puri at the Food Street next to Javaregowda Park
Some Italian food at The Old House - 10/10 recommend, especially if you are missing Bengaluru and her high-end cafes
Phew, sooo much eating! If you thought Bengaluru was food paradise, she is second only to what Mysuru offers. I can go on and on about what to do, what to see, what to eat in Mysuru. I will instead stop now, and move on to the Madikeri and Ooty itineraries which you probably came here for, in the first place.
2 day itinerary from Mysuru to Madikeri
Day 1:
Leave from Mysuru in the early morning.
Stop for coffee and some sightseeing at Kushalnagara. Visit the Namdroling Monastery and Nisargadhama. We found a very interesting cafe called Cafe 1854. They also serve Luwak Coffee, if you would like to try!
Continue along the winding roads, slowly ascending the Western Ghats.
We stopped for lunch at Yellow Gate Cafe, mainly for the view. It is right off the highway, and it sits on the edge, overlooking a beautiful estate, with a hilly backdrop. The food was alright, we had some hot Maggi and tea.
Pass through Madikeri town, and head towards Bhagamandala.
We stayed at Three Hills Resort. They have cottages and fully-equipped tents. We stayed in a tent, so it felt like glamping. Amenities include a swimming pool which overlooks the whole resort, a restaurant which also has a games area, a private waterfall (which is more of a brook, but equally enjoyable). I would definitely recommend choosing this property, and spending a good day and a half here, just nestled among the flora and fauna of the Western Ghats, listening to the rainfall, watching the fireflies, recharging and healing.
Day 2:
Wake up to the sound of the forest, and Madikeri’s incessant drizzle. Walk down a muddy path to dip your feet into the gushing waterfall. We stayed here for longer than planned, it really was quite serene. A resort staff member will accompany you so that you don’t have to worry about the slippery bath, and the leeches. He assured us that this water stream is just as full and vibrant all year long, but it was especially enjoyable after a week’s worth of rain.
Our breakfast was included, after which we checked out and drove back to Mysuru.
You can add Talakaveri, which is the birthplace of river Kaveri, and a few spots in Madikeri Town to your visit. Do check out Raja Seat, Omkareshwara temple and Madikeri Fort.
Stop for lunch at Kailash Parbat, which has a beautiful view of the valley with Madikeri town in the background, and guaranteed good food.
2-day itinerary from Mysuru to Ooty
Day 1:
Leave from Mysuru in the early morning.
Optionally, visit the Nanjangud temple, which is renowned as Dakshina Kashi.
Stop for breakfast at Gundlupete. We stopped at Hotel Udyam Bhavan as this felt like a good midway point.
Soon after, the Bandipur area begins. Keep your eyes peeled for deer herds, peacocks, elephants, all of which we had the great luck of spotting, on this road. Forest officials recommend that we drive slowly in this area, and not stop to see or feed any animals.
Bandipur Tiger Reserve ends and becomes Mudumalai Tiger Reserve.
Before heading to Ooty, visit Pykara.
On the way, visit Needle Rock View Point
At Pykara, visit the waterfalls and the lake for boating.
Head towards Ooty. We stopped for some coffee and a quick bite at Le Cafe. They serve all kinds of continental food, a variety of coffee beverages, and have ample parking.
Spend the next few hours of the evening in the Botanical Garden. Feel the temperatures drop, as the sun sets, while strolling in this large garden.
Shop for plants (all kinds of succulents and flowering plants), spices, winter wear at the market area which is right opposite the Botanical Garden gate.
Walk along this path, and stop for a drink of tea at Buddies. You can shop for handicrafts next door.
Have dinner at Kailash Parbat (super crowded on the weekends, we did not get a table), or at Adyar Anand Bhavan.
Overnight stay at Ooty. We stayed at Glen Park Inn because this was the best one available on super short notice. It was perfectly hygienic, comfortable and generally well located. There are many other better stays, do check and book in advance.
Day 2:
Visit the Government Museum. This will be a short visit, and I recommend visiting because the stone house is quaint and it sits atop a lovely green hill.
Take the toy train to Coonoor and back. Do book your tickets online, and in advance so that you can get your choice of coach.
If time permits, and you have booked in advance, experience the safari at Bandipur Tiger Reserve.
Head back to Mysuru, or Bengaluru.
Thank you for reading! Do follow on Instagram, and more upcoming itineraries.
Comments